Want to hit a man-sized target at over a half mile?
There are few people who attempt it, mostly because people assume they need a high-speed rifle, and high rise budget to get their round out there.
$1,000 is plenty to get you to 1,000-yards. A rifle for precision shooting at long range doesn’t have to cost thousands, and I’ve assembled a list of the best budget long range rifles to help you stretch your dollars.
But first, let’s talk about what you want from a long range rifle.
Table of Contents
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Mechanical Accuracy of a Rifle
Reaching out to 1,000-yards isn’t too hard if you know what you’re doing and have a rifle that can do it. While most of the task is on you the shooter, having good equipment makes it a lot easier.
The accuracy of a rifle is generally measured in MOA, it is effectively a cone of uncertainty. That cone starts at the muzzle and gets larger as it moves out to the range.
That cone can be measured in MILs or MOA – we’ll use MOA (minute of angle…roughly 1-inch diameter at 100 yards) – and is determined by the mechanical accuracy of the gun, among other factors.
You can’t overcome this.
If you were to strap a gun down and make sure it was 100% motionless between shots and it shot 1 MOA, you’d get no better than 10” in the group at 1,000 yards with no other variables.
The mechanical accuracy of the gun and ammo is almost never the weak point in a system, but is always the limiting factor.
Basic Requirements
Now that that’s out of the way, let’s talk about what you should expect from a long range rifle.
1 MOA Accuracy or Better
Your rifle must shoot 1moa with good ammo and do so reliably. At 1,000 yards, 1moa means you can expect no smaller than a 10” group without accounting for any other variable.
More is always better here, but you do hit a point of diminishing return with cost.
Most modern bolt-action rifles made by a respectable vender will shoot sub-MOA and a lot of them even come with the guarantee from the factory.
Free-Float Barrel
For optimal accuracy, you really want a barrel that is free-floated. From barrel whip to barrel heat to making sure your rest doesn’t deflect the barrel, there are a lot of reasons why a free-floated barrel greatly improves your potential accuracy.
When you’re in the store looking at your rifle, take a dollar bill and slip it between the barrel and the stock to check that it is really free-floating.
Rigid Forend
The forend of the rifle’s stock must be rigid enough to support the weight of a gun and preferably hold accessories like a bipod without flexing. You can compromise on this, but you’ll wish you hadn’t.
Predictable Trigger
Your trigger doesn’t have to be the best in the world. It can be heavy, creepy, and gritty, but it MUST be predictable.
A light, crisp trigger with no overtravel or take up is good because it feels simple and predictable when shot.
Properly Shaped Stock
The stock must be shaped properly to allow for proper scope alignment and good support for the forend end and toe of the butt.
You also need a well-shaped pistol grip on the stock so you can get the most control over your trigger.
A short length of pull can work for someone who will always be shooting prone, but you can’t go wrong with a standard length of pull.
Bonus: Aftermarket Support
This isn’t required, but it’s really nice to have and something you might want to keep in mind.
Upgrading and tweaking your rifle will cost a lot less than buying a new one later and will really help fill in any gaps you find once you get a feel for what you want.
If you choose a rifle platform that has a lot of aftermarket support, like a Tikka or Remington 700, sourcing upgrades is a lot easier and often cheaper than if you go with an obscure rifle.
Cartridge Selection
To be clear – this is a much-simplified version. We could go on for pages about what cartridges are good and why you should choose them, but that is more advanced information and this is a beginner’s article.
There are two huge players right now in the short-action long-range cartridge world: .308 Winchester and 6.5 Creedmoor.
If you want to reach past 800-yards we recommend 6.5 Creedmoor.
There is nothing wrong with .308 Win and for a lot of applications and a lot of people it is a great cartridge, but right now – 6.5 Creedmoor is king.
There are a lot of cartridges that are outstanding for long-range and depending on your exact needs one of those might be better than 6.5 Creedmoor, but generally speaking, 6.5 Creedmoor will get 95% of the jobs done that 99% of you readers need.
Large selection of ammo, reasonable match-grade prices, very high-quality practice/plinking ammo for a cheaper price, outstanding ballistics, huge parts compatibility since it is based on the .308 cartridge. 6.5 Creedmoor ticks all the boxes.
Prices accurate at time of writing
Prices accurate at time of writing
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Best 1,000-Yard Rifles For Under $1,000
1. Tikka T3 CTR
Tikka rifles are excellent shooters.
I’ve been toting a T3 Lite Stainless in .308 Winchester for many years. The rifle is my primary backcountry gun for deer, elk, bear and whatever else I think I may need to hunt.
It shoots groups well under an inch with factory ammo or handloads. To say I am a bit partial to Tikka rifles is probably an understatement.
The T3 CTR (Compact Tactical Rifle) is just what the range master ordered for someone looking for a platform to learn on and build from with regard to long range shooting.
A huge selling point for the Tikka is that the action itself is glass smooth. It feels like it’s running on ball barrings smooth.
The rifle is available in the following cartridges:
- .223 Rem
- .243 Win
- .260 Rem
- .308 Win
- 6.5 Creedmoor
- 7mm-08 Win.
Any one of these cartridges is perfect for long range shooting as well as hunting.
The CTR can be had in stainless, or black steel. Right or left-handed. The trigger is available as either a single set trigger or a single-stage trigger and is adjustable by the owner down to just two pounds.
The rifles come with a synthetic stock with a fixed cheek piece and a new interchangeable grip module. The grip can be configured in a traditional style or fitted with a more vertical module that makes shooting from the bench or competition positions more natural and comfortable.
Tikka barrels are made in the Sako factory. So when you buy a Tikka, a Sako barrel is being screwed to the Tikka receiver. Tikka guarantees sub-MOA 3-shot groups from all their rifles.
In addition, the barrel is threaded 5/8”-24 to easily allow the addition of a muzzle brake or suppressor.
The Tikka bolt shroud is now metal. Early T3 models were plastic. Under the bolt shroud is a cocking indicator. On the left side of the receiver is the bolt release.
The CTR is fed by Tikka’s own steel 10-round magazine. The magazine fits flush with the trigger guard and can be ejected without removing the trigger hand from the grip.
On top of the receiver, the rifle is drilled and tapped with extra screw placements to firmly anchor a Picatinny rail and mount your choice of glass securely.
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Prices accurate at time of writing
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It’s also the rifle of choice for more than just me!
What’s your take on the Tikka?
2. Bergara B-14 HMR (Hunting and Match Rifle)
Bergara has long been known for producing extremely accurate barrels.
They have now taken all that barrel building knowledge and coupled it with the some of the best armorers from the US Marine Corps Precision Weapons Section to build extremely accurate rifles for both hunters and competitors.
The HMR is designed to serve as a long range rifle as well as a hunting rifle. But what role it is best for depends on what configuration you get it in.
Currently, the HMR is available in the following cartridges:
- .22-250 Rem
- 6mm Creedmoor
- 6.5 Creedmoor, .308 Win
- 7mm Rem Mag
- .300 Win Mag
- .450 Bushmaster.
The rifle weighs in at 9.6 to 9.9 pounds depending on configuration and barrel length varies from 20 to 26 inches.
All barrels are threaded 5/8”-24 and come with a knurled thread cap. Some cartridges are available in a left hand action.
This is actually something that is fairly hard to find in a lot of rifles, so it’s nice that the HMR has that option!
Coming standard with a mini chassis system is adjustable for length of pull and has an adjustable cheekpiece and the barrels is fully floated.
It also comes with an adjustable trigger set at three pounds. The bolt handle is oversized and knurled for a good grip and easy manipulation.
The top of the receiver is drilled to accommodate any Remington Model 700 optics base and rings and safety is located on the right side of the receiver and the bolt release is on the left side.
Each HMR comes with a 5-round AICS-style magazine.
HMR rifles are guaranteed to produce sub-MOA groups at 100 yards.
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Prices accurate at time of writing
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The huge strengths of the Bergara, besides being a great rifle, is that they use AICS magazines that are widely available and the actions are built to be Remington 700 footprint, meaning that they can fit most chassis, stocks, rails, and triggers that fit the Remington 700 also.
This opens up a LOT of aftermarket options! Be sure to take a look at the Best Remington 700 Stocks and Chassis!
If you want the complete story on the Bergara B-14 HMR, we have the hands-on review for you!
3. Savage 10 BA Stealth
Savage has been turning out some incredibly accurate rifles in the last few years. Regardless of your past impressions about looks, and a perceived low-cost rifle, the results speak for themselves.
A prime example of this is the Savage 10 BA Stealth!
I have a bit of experience with the Savage Axis in .308 Winchester. I actually won the rifle in a raffle a few years ago. It is a package rifle with a very entry level Bushnell 3×9 scope.
I mounted the optic and headed to the range with same ammo I feed my Tikka. Low and behold…one half inch and smaller groups right out of the box. Say what you want, Savage rifles shoot.
The 10 BA stealth is based on a Model 110 blueprinted action mated to a very high-quality Savage barrel. The rifle is then mounted up in a Drake monolithic chassis specially modified to Savage’s specs and is machined from a solid billet of aluminum.
The buttstock is a Fab Defense GL-SHOCK shock-absorbing, six-position adjustable assembly with an adjustable cheekpiece.
Savage’s uses the superb Accu-Trigger and is fully adjustable.
Barrels are 20-24 inches depending on the cartridge selected and come with 5/8-24” threads and a thread protector. The barrel is fully free-floated in the Drake chassis. The M-Lok forend allows for easy mounting of rails and bipods.
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Prices accurate at time of writing
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The top of the receiver is complete with an EGW rail to accommodate the optics of your choice. A 10-round magazine feeds the Stealth.
4. Remington 700 Long Range
This rifle is built to reach out and touch things way out there. Remington 700 has been around for a loong time and has a richly proven track record.
Available in .25-06 Rem, 7mm Remington Mag, .300 Win Mag, .300 Remington Ultra Mag, and .30-06 Springfield, this rifle will satisfy your need for long-range shooting as well as perform exceptionally well in the field.
All chamberings are built around the Model 700 action and a heavy contour 26” barrel.
The stock is a Bell and Carlson M40 Tactical Stock with a full-length aluminum bedding block. There is an additional swivel on the forend to accommodate a bipod and sling.
The controls are classic 700 with a two-position safety, a user-adjustable X-Mark Pro trigger and the receiver is drilled and tapped for bases or a Picatinny rail.
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Prices accurate at time of writing
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One note about Remington – it’s true they’ve had issues for the past ~10+ years after being bought by Freedom Group. However, the issues are mostly present in their lower-end shotguns and rifles.
If you get anything other than the most budget tier option then you shouldn’t have a problem.
And there’s also tons of variants…we go over all of them in Best Remington 700 Rifles.
5. CZ 557 Varmint
Chances are you won’t see a lot of CZ rifles at a PRS match. However, if you want a rifle that is capable of shooting extremely small groups and doing it in style, take a look at a 557 Varmint.
The rifle has a distinct walnut stock with a wide, flat forend, a near-vertical pistol grip, and a high cheek piece to place your eye in perfect alignment with your optic.
Nice plus is that the grip area is stippled for a secure hold and the toe of the buttstock is flat so it will recoil perfectly on your rear bag.
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Barrel is 25.6” long and is a heavy contour. The cold hammer forging allows you to wring out the most accuracy possible.
Trigger is fully adjustable, and if it is remotely as good as the trigger on my 527, you will love it!
The rifle is available in .308 Winchester and is fed from steel, 10-round detachable magazines.
Optic mounting is via a 19 mm dovetail on the receiver. You can use CZ rings, or mount a rail up top for the long-range optic of your choice.
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Prices accurate at time of writing
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Buying Tips
Now whether you choose one of these rifles or not, there are a few more things to keep in mind when it comes to purchasing your long range rifle.
Spend Money Where It Will Make a Difference
Spending double to get a rifle that shoots 3/8ths MOA vs a rifle that shoots 1moa isn’t going to help nearly as much as better optics, better ammunition, or more time on the range will.
You can buy equipment to make shooting easier, but you can’t buy anything to make you a better shooter. Spend money where it counts.
Don’t Get Bogged Down in Trends
There’s plenty of trends in shooting. Brands, cartridges, calibers, and even the colors of guns fall in and out of style. Just because most guys shoot .308 doesn’t mean .270 win or .30-06 won’t get you to 1,000 just as easily.
Ignore Magnum Mania
You probably don’t need a magnum cartridge. Any benefit you get in a magnum cartridge in terms of external ballistics is negated by cost, recoil, and noise. The only time you would need a magnum is hunting or when you’re going for a 2-mile challenge.
Even shooting at very long ranges, out to 2500-yards, can be done with conventional cartridges as long as your round stays super-sonic.
Run What You’ve ‘Brung
At the end of the day, you can only shoot what you’ve got. If all you can bring to the range is a beat up .30-06, go for it!
As long as you can see the target, you can shoot at it safely. Again, 1,000 yards isn’t as hard as it’s made out to be and it can be done with most people’s deer rifles.
Get Good Practice
If you’re ever torn between getting new guns or getting more practice, buy ammo for more practice. The high precision ammunition needed for long range shooting is expensive in any caliber, including .308.
“Decent” practice ammo – depending on caliber and the brand you like – will normally be around 75-90 cents per round. One of our favorites for 6.5 Creedmoor is Sellier & Bellot 140gr FMJBT.
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Prices accurate at time of writing
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You can expect to pay over a dollar per round for the really good match grade stuff, and 800 rounds of ammo will make you a better shooter. A new rifle won’t.
Take Good Advice
When you start out, you’ll be approached by all sorts of “experts.” Just because someone can afford a .338 Lapua doesn’t mean they have any idea of what they’re talking about.
Listen to the guy who can show you what to do, not the guy who tells you what to do.
Parting Shots
Hopefully, the options above give you a place to start if you are looking at getting into long range shooting.
Obviously, you will need a scope that provides the adjustment necessary to engage targets at long range and that will enable you to see the bullet impacts on the target.
By keeping the rifle part of the equation at $1,000 or less, hopefully, more shooters can get in on the PRS matches in their area or at least begin to explore the world of long range shooting.
You don’t need to spend thousands of dollars to access equipment capable of hits at extreme ranges. The most important aspect of the long range game is time on the trigger and learning how to interpret the conditions.
Tell us about the rifles you use for your long range shooting and what is working for you. For some great optics options, take a look at the Best Long Range Scopes!
47 Leave a Reply
What about the 6.8 Western? I've been reading about that a bit and if info is correct I like it sounds to be flat shooter, hard hitter and long distance. Your thoughts??
ah, nice marketing ploy with the Sellier & Bellot 6.5CR at $15.50 per 20.
LOL.. I bought 3,000 rounds of these before all the prices got crazy off the internet.. S&G Ammo I think..Not sure..Id never shot any S&B before this purchase. I Bought them strictly because of cheap prices.
Now with that said I like SB ammo, Plus the brass is pretty dang good..Way better than the Hornady Brass.
The S&B I bought shot equally as good as Remington and Hornady Black.. So whats not to like.
your info is simply the best i have read it open my eyes about buying my first long range rifle thanks Spencer
I’ve been reading a lot of articles about these types of rifles over the last few days (birthday coming up) and I have to say this is by far the most informative and well written article I’ve come upon. Thank you Sir
Randy, I have a Ruger M77 Mark II stainless bull barrel and action 22-250 with a laminated stock.
I used to live in New Mexico where it's coyote plenty! The best that I can get on a kill shot is about 750 yards with 65 grain?(I think) green ballistic tip bullets which would still leave a hole the size of golf ball at that distance.
My question is that I can't seem to find that 10" pattern or get a closer group up to that 1000 yards.
Any ideas? Bullets?, Scope? Stock?
Thanks
Randy I would have to add two more rifles the that list, Howa and Ruger American Predator. I have both one in 300 PRC and the other in 6.5 Creedmoor, both guns are constantly on at 1000 yards. I will say that the scope makes a big difference as well. I have several years of shooting under my belt, I did 20 years in the Marine Corps, 5 of those as a PMI ( Primary Marksmanship Instructor ) and Small Arms Weapons Instructor teaching entry level and sustainment level.
Savage 10 in .308 ($550) is a good start. love the adjustable trigger. 2.5lbs is my sweet spot. i use a 20 moa base to get the needed elevation of around 38 moa on the 20" barrel. My first 1000 yd rifle, with glass and add ons at $850 total. Savage BA Stealth 24" barrel in 6.5 CM ($1100) with 20 moa base is also an excellent choice, but double the cost. Rounds are same price. For .308 the least expensive rounds fly the best. the hotter rounds have issues with the shorter barrel. They don't fly right. I like HPBT for both. in 6.5 the Hornady Black at $1/rnd from Academy all day long work great. The .308 i had to build a cheek rest out of 4 pcs of foam from a pool noodle, stacked atop one another and topped by a piece of PVC cut in half. Held on by an ankle wrap to get eye elevation correct. Might look cheezy, but it works awesome. BA has adjustable cheek rest. 6.5 flies flatter to 1000 so doesn't need as much elevation as the .308. But, I've proven it can be done for $850. ALL factory. The guys I proved it to? Bill Davison from Tac-Pro, former british special forces, and Mike the SWAT trainer for Fort Worth PD. Bill didn't think it could be done. My glass? $139.00 6-24x44. Hit sub moa, 7" below dead center on 2nd shot. They were stunned. Actually, so was I. Didn't know if it would get there, but it surely did. I'd never shot to that distance before. Never beyond 200 yds. It's more on them than me. I just did what they taught me to do, and viola. Nailed it!
That's what I call shooting out to 1000 yards for UNDER $1000. It's glass included! Beat that. Oh, and to end the day, I nailed a 4.5" clay target from 1000 yds. Less than .5 moa shot!
What about the Savage 110 High Country?
Savage took a buy out hit like Harley Davidson did with that AMF deal way back when and about the same time to but I always heard that like HD Savage was bought back by POs that didn't like what had become of there once great product and for some time now Savage is if not the most accurate out of the box tracker it's in the big three of them. SWAT and police depots buy and use them anymore. They are VERY fairly priced and the 110/111 actions are hard to beat IMHO.
I have one.
My wife won a raffle from a local firing range and with the gift card I purchased one. Have scoped it with a long-range option and also added a wonderful sling. But due to the pandemic and, at 69 years, I would like to live to fire it......I've not fired it.......waiting.....waiting.....waiting.
It's the definition of frustration for this Ex-Marine. But then, we Marines know that life's a b*tch and then you die.
I hope you've had a chance to shoot it by now my brother. Times seem tough anymore, but putting a few rnds down range can free the mind. All the best!
Good basic advice on the getting started with PRS style shooting. To many people get all hyped up about buying accuracy without learning to shoot well; and then working until you can shoot really well. But you failed to mention the rimfire style of PRS. When you can hit 10 for 10 on a 3 inch target at 300 yards with a 22 long rifle, you have really accomplished something. And certainly spent a lot spent a lot less time and money. Next up, try a smaller target...
Yes, that's a 1 moa shot. Too many get tied up in long range which can get very expensive, very quickly. I love shooting out to 1000 yds and beyond, but i also love shooting my .22 at mid range. Takes the same breathing, trigger control and all the rest, but at a FRACTION of the cost. My Ruger 10/22 ($180) with a tactical stock from ATI Outdoors ($80), the upgraded Ruger 2.5 lb trigger ($75), a $16 bipod, and a bug buster 3-9x32 scope ($80). So, for about $450 I utilize the same exact principals used in shooting out to a mile, but at a fraction of cost. At .06/rnd for .22 compared to .308 and 6.5 CM at $1/rnd you can have a day of fun on the cheap and still work on ALL of your skills with that 3" target. I hang 5 - 3" round steels side by side, with a 7.5" x 12" tall torso on a small DIY rack at 200 yds. You MUST get the Ruger 2.5 lb trigger upgrade. The factory trigger is horrible. 7 lbs of scratchy nastiness. And if you're shooting larger calibers, you're gonna wanna have the lighter trigger anyway, so DO IT NOW! You won't be sorry. Then go out and have a blast !!!!!
Another great article, but I opted for the buy once cry once. 100% custom build Bighorn Action, 28" 6mm Creedmoor Bartlein Barrel, MPA Chassis, Nightforce ATACR 5-25, Jewell Trigger, and of course a TBAC Ultra 9 screwed onto the end. This gun is a precision machine, I had as much fun researching the build and "nerding" out on all the components as I do shooting it. I couldn't agree with the author more on choosing what you want or can afford and stick with it, next year it will be a new caliber, scope, chassis, or ballistic app the PRS guys are using. Don't chase the shiny object. Once you build it shoot, shoot, and more shoot. Go to a class on long range, I am planning on a trip to the Whittington Center near Raton. Regardless of whether you do budget or custom be proud of this style of shooting hobby, it is definitely NOT for everyone.
I think it should be pointed out the USMC M40 is not a Remington 700. Sure the action is a 700 short action but that's it.
The current M40a5 has a trued action, Schneider heavy barrel with a Surefire muzzle brake, badger ordnance bottom plate with detachable mags, and a McMillan A4 stock all custom built by USMC armorers. That rifle is over $5,000. A long way from a 700.
I have been looking into getting my feet wet with long range shooting. I am really interested in the Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor mentioned in the article however an opportunity came up for me to purchase a used Tikka T3x Lite in 7mm-08 at almost half the price of a new CTR 6.5. Would there be that huge of a difference in the two that could warrant the higher price tag? Or since I am newer to the long range game, the used one will suffice for my needs? I will also note I would plan to hunt with the rifle as well, nothing bigger then deer. Thanks!
7mm-08 is a great round! There are going to be two downsides though 1) The Tikka T3x Lite is "lite" because of the lightweight barrel. Generally, lightweight barrels for long range precision are not great. They have can harmonics issues and they heat up quickly. But if this is also a hunting rifle, then not lugging around the extra weight will be nice. 2) 7mm-08 is very much a hunting cartridge. Finding precision ammo and especially precision plinking ammo can be hard to do. It is also a bit more pricey on average.
As an example, the "cheap" 7mm-08 ammo I've found is PPU 140gr Soft Point for around 88 cents per round. PPU is good plinking ammo, but it doesn't really cut it for long range practice ammo and it being soft point hurts even more for precision. But when you look at 6.5 Creedmoor, there are a LOT of options for match grade ammo and practice ammo such as Hornady American Gunner 140gr BTHP for 87.5 cents a round. Cheaper, better ammo, with a longer barrel life.
I think it comes down to what you want to do with the rifle most. If this is primarily a hunting rifle that you want to dabble with long range on, then the Tikka Lite in 7mm-08 is a great option. But if you want this to be a long range training rifle that you might take hunting a couple of times, then a Tikka CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor will be better in the end.
Great article but I think you should have picked the new Savage 110 tactical instead of the 10 BA stealth. It's a much cheaper and really just as capable rifle.
Initially I liked the Remington 700, then I was going to step up into the HMR but read they had some problems with the Remington parts, so as I wanted the 300 wm looked at Tika, then eventually found the Sako A7 Roughtech Pro I on sale for less than the Tika T3X. The Sako 3 lug bolt is not the same as the Tika bolt. Once I had the Sako, I replaced the plastic trigger guard with metal and now have a rifle that fits my goals. It's light enough to hunt with, strong enough to handle field work, powerful enough to stop just about anything and accurate enough that I can't blame the rifle for a miss. And the recoil doesn't bother me on the range.
I got a fat grip of that S&B 6.5 Creedmoor when they were $11.99 a box at PSA... SCORE!!!!
Which one has a better ballistic coefficient than the 224 Valkyrie? Does anything fly flatter or faster? How about windage?
.224 Valk is designed for the AR-15 and is limited due to that platform. For long-range, in an AR-15, it is a solid choice - but I would favor 6.5 Grendel or 6.8 SPC. If you're willing to move outside of the AR-15 then your options become huge with 6mm Creedmoor, 6.5 Creedmoor, .308 Win, 300 PRC, and a whole lot more.
If you want an easy answer - yes, there is a lot that flys flatter and faster than .224 Valk. I would recommend our Ultimate 6.5 Creedmoor Guide!
Valkyrie suffered instability when shot from what was the standard twist rate. A new twist rate seems to have them spinning better, so hopefully they have fixed it... but beware of the early Valkyrie barrels with the wrong twist rate.
We cover that and more in our .224 Valk Guide ;) Even with the newer twist rates, results are hit and miss within the community. .224 Valk still has its issues to be worked before it becomes a major contender. That's why I like 6.5 Grendel for AR-15 long range shooting, well-proven cartridge with a bit more oopf.
I'd also like to give an honorable mention to the Howa APC (Australian Precision Chasis) rifle. I bought one in .308 Winchester for about $850 from Bud's. I topped it with a Leupold VX-5HD 3-15 x44 for the longest local range I have nearby. It comes with a free-floated and threaded 20" bull barrel. I put an American Precision Fat Bastard brake on it. A Luth AR MBA-4 stock rounds it out. I love it. It's a tack driver.
I will put either of my Browning A-Bolts with the BOSS against any of these rifles.
Some comments are a bit harsh for not including Howas. I was at the gun show in Del Mar Ca. land of the anti-gun nuts. I wanted a bolt action .223 and found it. A CZ 527. The Nikon scope that came with it isn't the best but it's good enough. What a great rifle for under just $700. The trigger pull is a two step that makes it super light when you're ready to fire. The hard wood stock is excellent....I imagine the 557 is too.
Tikka CTR in 6.8. Changed out to a heavy Manners stock and have Vortex Edge scope. First nice rifle I bought. Easy to shoot with low recoil. Even my wife loves to shoot it !!!!!!!
I love my 1982 700. It's actually a LH PER 1903 in 06. Yep, stamped 1903 right below the front scope mount. She came with an inch longer barrel with a hooded front sight. An M40 bbl was installed by my armorer along with a custom synthetic stock. Both the rifle and stock came out of my pocket. It's all a very long story. My armorer lost it misplaced the original bbl. I still have the rifle. When I got out I sent the receiver and safari stock to Remington with a note " ....when you get around to it." Months later UPS delivered my rifle. Opening the original box there was my 1903 just the way it left the shop in 82 with a a list of all they did. At the bottom of list was a hand printed N/C and a note. "Thanks for your service and choosing Remington as your service rifle.". Tom CUSTOM SHOP.
" Even shooting at very long ranges, out to 2500-yards, can be done with conventional cartridges as long as your round stays super-sonic."
Wrong! Take what you know about a 30-06 and where she drops out, and leaves that white puff. That puff will let you know you are likely on target before the round reaches it's destination.
Care to really test your shooting skills? Lose the scope, know the parabolic curve, and the proper barrel placement to add for each 200yrds of drop and drift..
I just did some testing with my father's Ruger American Predator in 6.5. This is an entry level gun (sub $300 on sale). With a Vortex Viper 6.5-20 and factory Hornady ammo the gun shot repeated 1-hole groups at 100 yards. With hand loaded Sierra Match Kings, same result, same POI. He also installed a Defensive Edge brake so it is easier shooting for my young nephew and niece.
We then walked it out on a private range and recorded first-rounds hits at 430, 620, 710, 830, 900 and 1015 yards. We used the Shooter Ballistic App.
So, for less than $800, all in you can get started in the long-range hobby and have consistent results.
Lapua All the way
Enjoyed and appreciate this article. Very well done. I am 68 and been shooting since 12. Bought a Stevens single 16 at 12 years and a 1903 at 14 years old. The only question asked both times if it was ok with my Dad. The 1903 could hit anything aimed at within reason. Keep up the good work.
Thanks so much James!
You are forgetting one of the largest aspect of any 1000 yard rifle. It's the build that makes or breaks the gun not the brand. Very few, from personal observations of the last 1000 shooters I have worked with, use a factory stock on a rifle designed to shoot 1000 yards. You mention Remington 700P, stating it has higher quality parts. In reality every 700, other than each different generation of triggers, and prehaps a change of the bolt handle is literally the same action and bolt. In some occasions the stocks are different but very rarely is that the case and only because companies try to replicate what most operators who shoot 1000+ yards already do; they take the stock off, make changes the trigger, and always replace the stock and occasionally the barrel. If you want a rifle capable of shooting past 1000 yards don't pay more for a different series of the same rifle. What you should do is find a cheap usable rifle like Cabelas Savage 12FV for 360 (-100 rebate) and use the extra money to buy a after market stock that works well for you. If you insist on a 700 then go for a cheap ADL on sale and do the same as you would to the savage. Always buy the least expensive brand and model of the action you want and then use your savings to purchase an after market stock (130 to 850) , trigger (100 to 200), scope base (45 to 200), adjustable check rest (45 to 90). That savage long range hunter is really a 250 dollar action + a 350 stock +50 scope rail and a 700 markup.
5 or 6 years ago I bought a Remington 700ADL .223 (bull barrel) from Dick's Sporting Goods for around $350 (special deal at the time). I was able to shoot clover leafs consistently at 100 yards with my own reloads. After 3500 +/- rounds down the barrel I finally wore out the throat. Instead of replacing the barrel I bought another Rem 700ADL when they were on sale at Cabela's before Christmas. I out shoot many of the "old timers" that bring their Cooper and other BIG $$$ rifles with $2500 scopes. Love to watch their disbelief when we retrieve our targets. Good shooting skills and finely tuned reloaded ammunition wins the day in my neck of the woods.
My son bought a Savage 11 LRH in .308 and several loads shot under an inch at 100. Put it on the chronograph and got it sighted for 1000 yards (about 33" high at 100 yards. Went to a MidSouth Marksmen competition where the guys were very helpful and encouraging. Long story short he did not win the match but his first shot hit the target and he did not finish last either! As noted above - So grab a gun, get to the range, and shoot!
pretty happy w/ DPMS .308 /7.62x51 and 3-9x50 Nikon. only out to 400 so far but like the set up. has a jard trigger. original was very gritty.
I settled on the Savage 111 LRH in 7mm Rem Mag.
Choosing a telescopic sight for the same price range as the rifle was a challenge. I got the Leupold 4.5-14x50 with side focus and illuminated reticle (which I have yet to need). The sight was finally mounted on a Weaver Picatinny rail with four-screw Weaver Skeleton rings in order to get a correct sight picture. Then, I modified the adjustable Monte Carlo so the bolt could be removed with the cheek piece installed. I found the AccuStock was not free-floating the barrel and had to modify the channel for correct clearance. I have almost gotten the brass fire formed and we'll see what my "Plinker" can do with my Kustom Krafted ammunition..
I have to 6,5 creedmoor rifles one a ruger one a savage. They both will shoot half inch groups with factory ammo at a 100 yards. The savage has a trigger you can take down to 6 oz. The Ruger down to about 3 pounds. The Ruger cost around $ 1200 and the Savage around $1000.
Thanks for the article.. I think it says 'pick a weapon and go'.. :)
Ruger RPR skipped.. Ummm, why?
The gen 2s are running sub-1k at least in .308. The 6.59mm (I won't get started on questioning why 6.5 isn't covered as a very viable option) is barely $1100. All the cool add ons for 1000yrd shooting. All the things the Failmington.. eeerr quality control failbus aka Remington... 700 of just about any production model lack at the price point.
-Detachable mag.. PMAGS at that
-20MOA integral rail on the receiver
-Shooter Tunable trigger
-Freefloat barrel and AR pattern handguards, youre not stuck with the factory decided chassis or having to spend another 800 for a decent one
-Threaded barrel with a decent break
-larger than average (that's what she didn't say) bolt knob
-VERY adjustable stock, with cheek rest
-Folding stock
-sub-MOA all day long with factory baarrel and decent ammunition
-barrel changes are simple
You will be closer to $2000, more like $2500 to get there wither the 700 platform
You cannot get all of this out of the box with any of these "recommendations" .... seriously, who missed The objective boat when this article was passed through review? Cause I'd sure like to take their job
Where are the Howas?
Bunch of shit. This should be loaded with Tikka's, Bergara's, and Howa. Maybe a Savage. None of the rest.
As a fellow looking for my first axe to start working on longish range shooting, I'm very interested in your published article on the subject.
Look at grabagun.com they have the Ruger Precision 6mm creed and 223 rem on sale for 799 a thievery at that price. I can get dime size groups at 200 yards with factory Hornady 6mm creed and even tighter with my reloads. Also have the Savage LRH in 6.5 284 and it's a tack driver as well.