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The 1911 80% is much harder than an AR15 80%. Â Disclaimer again. Â These two resources have given me a lot more confidence and I think you should check them out since they cover more than I ever could:My Setup
There’s many ways to skin a cat, and probably even more ways to finish your Tactical Machining 1911 80%. My resources are pointing me towards a drill press and cross slide vise. Those combined with the jig should make quick work of the hammer pin, sear pin, and even barrel seat. The hardest part I foresee is the slide rail. I’m going with shallow cuts with my vise and finishing up with files and lapping compound. A mill would probably be the best, so if you know someone that has one, I’d go that route. But as for me, here’s my setup:- Drill Press ($200): Craftsman 12-inch Drill Press. Edit: Several of you have said the chuck only goes up to 5/8 inches so it will not hold the 18mm end mill below. You will need to buy a different chuck. Please let me know which one you went with down in the comments.  The top selling Drill Press on amazon for $160 for the budget conscious.  It is 10-inch which will be plenty but still has the chuck problem.
- Vise ($45): 4″ Cross Slide Vise, also seen the same thing at Harbor Freight
Drill Bits
- 4mm Drill Bit ($3)
- Forney #35 Drill Bit ($8)
- 18mm Ball End Mill 4-Flute (~$70)
- I went with this Whitney 3/32 x 3/8 Key Seat Cutter ($17)
Essential Tools
- Tekton Needle File Set ($6): Held up great so far for quick frame/slide work, has square file perfect for the slide rail
- Digital Calipers ($20): Held up great for 3 years so far, sharp edges so you can etch with the Dykem
- Dykem Layout Fluid ($6): Easily see the cuts on your frame
- Bubble Level ($8): Check if everything is level, or use a smartphone app
- Wilson Bushing Wrench ($4): Good to not mar up your slide
- Wheeler Lapping Compound ($38): To finish up your slide to frame fitting
- Pin Vise ($12): Holds the burr to hand turn the plunger tube chamfer
- Burr Set ($5): For chamfering the plunger tube hole
- Sandpaper ($4): General fitting
- Craftsman Plastic Tip Hammer ($14): You’ll need a pretty good hammer for slide fitting
Nice to Have Tools
You’ll probably want to pick some of these up from Brownells to make your life easier:- Ed Brown Sear Jig ($50): For the trigger job. Probably not needed if you went the drop-in match trigger route.
- Square Ceramic Stone ($25): Super fine stone for sears and other surfaces
- Plunger Staking Tool ($32):The plunger tube seems really annoying to install correctly so I got the tool.
- Beavertail Install Jig ($30): Let’s you easily file down the frame. I put it on and it looks like Tactical Machining’s frame fits perfectly, so it is not needed.
Next Lesson
Part 1: Intro (Finding the 80%)
Part 3: Parts List
Part 5: Cutting the Slide Rail
9 Leave a Reply
Thanks for replying. I ended up going with a 5/8 chuck and 11/16 End Mill with a 5/8 shank. That's as close as I can get it.
Does the 18mm Ball Nose End Mill you have linked fit a 5/8 max chuck? I plan on purchasing a 5/8 chuck for that specific end mill and I need to know if I should plan otherwise.
Hi, it's a straight bit so you'll need more than a 5/8 inch (.625 inch). 18mm comes out to .708 inch.
Just so you know, the 8in Drill press is too small for the jigs and slide vise to fit.
Thanks, that should help out others!
Can I use a 8in drill press or does it have to be 12in?
Edit: 8-inch drill press is too small.
I'm not 100% sure but I would lean towards a yes. I chose the 12 inch so I can use it for other projects as well.
Awesome! I'm really looking forward to watching your progress on the build.
Thanks! Got all the bits, now just waiting on TM's jig. Should have an update this coming weekend.