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The Truth About Brass vs. Steel Ammo

Should you shoot steel-cased ammo? Or simply stick with the more expensive brass-cased ammo? We go through the facts and set things straight with some simple rules to follow.

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Everywhere you look in the gun world, you can find a debate about something...Glock vs 1911, .45 vs 9mm, etc. 

40 s&w
9mm vs .45 ACP

And like most things, people have their opinions...and then there are the facts, and a lot of the time there’s not a lot of crossover between the two.

Well, today we’re going to set the record straight on something that’s been the cause of a lot of debate in our comments section on Facebook and elsewhere: brass-cased vs. steel-cased ammo.

Draco NAK-9 Russian Steel Ammo
Steel-cased ammo

Some people say never use steel, some people would rather die than pay the more expensive brass ammo prices. Each side has its arguments.

What’s the difference? Why should you care? Does it even matter? Which one should you be using? Is one better than the other?

Let’s see if we can settle (or more likely just add to) the debate. We'll cover both of these, lay out the pros/cons and get to the bottom of which is better.

So keep reading to learn more.

Brass Ammo Pros & Cons

Brass Seals Better, Runs Cleaner

Brass ammo is generally considered to be better than steel-cased ammo because it creates a better chamber seal than steel.

Thus you have less blowback into the chamber and the receiver.

Ruger in lead free ammo

Brass is better at this sealing action because it is more malleable than steel. So, it expands to snugly fit the walls of the chamber.

This means you have less gas and unburned powder that pass back into your gun every time it’s fired.

Though cheaper, steel offers a less malleable construction. As such, it creates a poorer seal -- generally running dirtier across the board.

This creates more opportunities for malfunctions due to carbon buildup.

It also means a rifle shooting steel-cased ammo will be less reliable in the long run...although there are some exceptions...but I’ll get to that in a minute.

Faxon Firearms Ascent AR-15

Brass Can Be Reloaded, Steel Can’t

Not safely, anyway.

Because it’s softer and more malleable, brass can reliably be reshaped to its original dimensions and reloaded.  

We call this resizing the case because gun folk are simple and direct a lot of the time.

Resizing Brass Cases
Resizing Brass Cases

You can learn more about the reloading process here.

Practically, if you don’t intend to reload/handload your ammo anyway, this won’t be much of a concern for you.

Dillon 550-B Reloading Press
Dillon 550-B Reloading Press

But for high-volume shooters and those who want to get the most bang for their buck (literally), this is something to consider.

Steel cases can’t really be resized as easily.

Once they expand they like to stay expanded -- meaning you get only two, maybe three, safe uses out of the case before it has to be thrown away or recycled.  

45 Colt Reloads Lever Action
.45 Colt Reloads

Steel-Cased Ammo Pros & Cons

Steel (Might) Extract Better

Of course, there’s also the issue of extraction.  

Press Checks Rifle

Now, most of the Western weapons you’re probably most familiar with (AR-15 and AR-10s for example) use primarily straight-walled cartridges that extract with fairly light pressure.

Now, take for example some of the surplus FALs lying around (yes I know the FAL is Belgian), or AKs rechambered for straight-walled cartridges.

L to R - 22 LR, 45 Colt, 30-30 Win, 300 Savage, 45-70 Government
L to R - 22 LR, 45 Colt, 30-30 Win, 300 Savage, 45-70 Government

These rifles can, if not properly tuned, rip the heads clean off of softer brass cases.

This is because, in general, the tolerances are not as tight on these guns and they extract with much more force than most brass-cased ammo is designed to tolerate.

This is especially prevalent in older FALs in .223/5.56x45mm, and Kalashnikov-patterned rifles like the AK-74 that are shooting intermediate cartridges like the 5.45x39mm -- rather than say, AKM and SKS rifles firing the larger 7.62x39mm.  

Lancaster Arms Rough Rider AK-74 Loading Mag
Lancaster Arms Rough Rider AK-74

This is in part due to the extra meat the extractor has to yank on as a byproduct of what is simply a larger cartridge.  

More material supporting the point of contact between the extractor and the case means a lower likelihood of a failure to extract due to torn brass.

Failure to Eject
Failure to Eject

In general, any rifle with a shorter and more violent extraction is going to have more issues than a rifle with a longer cycle time and less violent extraction.

So, a delayed blowback-operated weapon like a FAMAS is going to be more likely to rip brass than an AR-15 and may function better with steel.

PSA AK74 Ammo Pile

That’s not to say that weapons like the FAMAS, AK-pattern guns, the FAL, and others won’t run well with brass.

Quite the contrary, in fact.

These rifles may run just fine and never have a single issue, and many of them will fire thousands of issue-free, brass-cased rounds down range and never chamber a single steel cartridge.

PSA AK74 Shooting Left Side
PSA AK-74

This extra cartridge strength, especially in intermediate cartridges, is, however, one of the big selling points of steel.  

Yes, it’s dirty, but it’s also incredibly robust when it comes to that sort of thing.

So, AKs and other guns that extract with a bit more force may actually perform more reliably with steel than brass -- especially if you’re talking about older surplus guns that were imported as parts kits.

surplus rifles for shooting competitons
Surplus rifles are a great way to get into rifle shooting without breaking the bank.

An argument can be made that countries like Russia gravitated towards guns with short, aggressive cycles because they could make use of cheaper steel ammo that our Eastern brethren produced en masse.

An argument can also be made for steel ammo being produced en masse in these countries because it works better in guns with looser tolerances and more aggressive extraction cycles that tend to be favored there.

Now, is this a concern for a target shooter or someone who is going to slow-fire their way through one magazine a month? Probably not, honestly.

Draco NAK-9 Shooting
If you're just plinking at the range occasionally, it probably won't matter.

But it's still better to test any rifles that you plan on using for serious business, be that combat or competition, with the ammo you intend to use first.

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Then Again, Steel Might Not Extract Better

While steel is harder and thus less likely to get ripped into by an aggressive extractor, it’s is also sometimes more likely to get stuck because of its other physical properties.

Aero Precision Thunder Ranch TR15 556 Steel Ammo

First, we have the hardness and resistance of deformation that makes it less resistant to ripped rims and torn off heads.  

This same hardness is what causes steel to run dirty (remember, it doesn’t expand as well and thus doesn’t seal as well).

But it also means that it may expand unevenly in the chamber, leading to it getting stuck.

PPT-SU16B-017
Sometimes steel can induce malfunctions.

I’ve had steel cases get stuck so firmly that I had to run a steel cleaning rod down the barrel and gently tap it out with a mallet.  

This kind of malfunction can be a pain in the ass at the range, and a death sentence in a combat/self-defense situation.

So, it’s definitely something to take note of when choosing steel ammo for a defensive gun.

Steel Ammo is Lower in Overall Quality & Less Accurate (Or is It?)

There’s an abiding belief that steel ammo is inherently lower in overall quality than brass ammo.

This is one area we can definitively side one way or the other.  

In this case, we’re siding with the truth and that is this...

There is nothing about steel-cased ammo that says it’s of inherently lower quality than brass.

That said, it’s important to note that a lot, if not most, steel-cased ammo is produced to less-strict tolerances and with less consistency than brass ammo.

Popular 7.62x39 Ammo
Popular 7.62x39 ammo

But that’s because most steel-cased ammo is aimed at a cheaper market in general.

There’s nothing about steel-cased ammo that says this has to be the case, however.

Hornady proved that with their competition-ready Steel Match ammo produced with all the quality and attention to detail that of their other premium offerings.

So, while steel ammo might be lower in quality than brass on average, that’s more a function of market trends and such that it is any difference in materials.  

It also means that if you want match-grade ammo and maximum reliability, it doesn’t mean you need to feed your steel-preferring gun brass.

Assorted 7.62x39 (FMJ, Open, Soft, FMJ)
Assorted 7.62x39 (FMJ, Open, Soft, FMJ)

It just means you’ll want to pick up steel-cased rounds from higher-quality manufacturers.

These higher-quality rounds can be just as accurate as high-end brass rounds, provided you and your gun are both up to the task.

Steel is Cheaper (Usually)

This difference in average manufacturing quality leads to the next (perhaps the biggest) point of consideration.

One of the chief draws of steel-cased ammo, at least the stuff you’ll normally find on the shelves at big-box retailers and your local gun store is the price.

Different Casing Materials (Brass, Nickel Plated, Steel)
Different Casing Materials (Brass, Nickel Plated, Steel)

This is because, as we discussed above, most steel ammo isn’t manufactured to the same standard as brass-cased ammo.  

This is the core of the steel vs. brass ammo debate for a lot of people.

Some people think the overall lower quality of steel disqualifies it from serious use. Others think the savings make up for the difference in quality.

money meme
A lot of us experience this when we walk by the ammo section of our local sporting goods store.

In general, I wouldn’t recommend hunting, competing, or defending hearth and home with any cheap ammo -- be it brass or steel.

That said, if you’re just plinking at the range, go with what suits your budget.  

HK VP9 Shooting
If you're just dorking around the range, then feel free to use that budget-friendly ammo.

Practice is important, and if you’re trying to save money, spend more time at the range, and literally get more bang for your buck, steel may be the way to go.

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Steel Needs Case Coatings

Steel is naturally less slick than brass, which can also contribute to the stuck case issue.

PSA AK74 545x39mm
5.45x39mm

Because of this, most if not all steel ammo comes with a coating to help extract easier and stay free of rust which can also cause extraction issues.  

Brass is naturally corrosion-resistant and again, slicker than steel.

While you can find lots of brass ammo that is coated for more reliability, it isn’t strictly necessary most of the time.

Popular 5.56 and .223 Ammo
Popular 5.56 and .223 Ammo

Steel coatings come in two flavors, polymer, which is more modern and generally more expensive, and the cheaper lacquer.

Lacquer coatings like what you’ll find on Brown Bear steel-cased ammo are commonly believed to be less reliable than polymer coatings.

This is due to the idea that the lacquer likes to “melt” and create extra gunk in the chamber.

That doesn’t seem to match up with reality, however. A least not in the exhaustive testing our friends at Lucky Gunner did.

They compared brass ammo versus a number of common steel alternatives.

Taurus GX4 Mags with 9mm

In their testing, they found that lacquer-coated Brown Bear ammo malfunctioned about half as often as polymer-coated Wolf ammo in an AR-15 platform.

I highly recommend checking out their full results, especially if you appreciate a science-based approach to ballistics and firearms in general.

Now, it’s also worth noting that out of 10,000 rounds, even the worst performing of the three rounds that they finished testing only had fifteen stoppages

Tula was partially discounted because of issues, either inherent or acquired, with the rifle they were testing it with.

PPT-SU16B-014
From left to right the ammunition is as follows: Winchester 62 grain open tip, TulAmmo 62 grain FMJ, TulAmmo 75 grain HP, and in the magazine below TulAmmo 55 grain HP.

Fifteen sounds like a lot, but in reality that comes out to a 99.85% success rate, which is pretty good, especially for steel-cased ammo in the lightly extracting AR-15 platform.

But is it good enough?

Choosing Between Brass & Steel

Taking all of this information into account, and weighing all the pros and cons of steel vs. brass ammo...which one should you choose?

Well, the answer is actually the same as almost every other big “should I do A or B” question...it depends.

Depends

Do you have an old Soviet gun you found buried in a rice paddy? It may work better with steel ammo.

Do you have a modern AR-15 that is as soft-shooting as a .22? It may work better with brass.

Daniel Defense MK18
Daniel Defense MK18

Are you reloading? You’ll probably want brass again.

Are you an occasional visitor to the range looking to save some money? You might find steel to be the best option for you.

PHLster Floodlight OWB

As with most things, this conversation comes down to personal choice. You have to sit down and weigh all these pros and cons and come up with an answer for yourself.

Ideally, you’ll want to do some testing on your own and find out what your gun works best with.

I’d recommend a 500 round test minimum to find out what your gun prefers.

UDP AR 9 ammo
UDP AR-9

Personally, I gravitate towards brass because I know it’s going to function in my ARs and I can reload it.

Conclusion

Hopefully, this information will help you better decide whether brass or steel runs best in your gun. 

Just remember, there are upsides and downsides to each.

CCI Blazer Brass 9mm

So, what ammo do you run in your guns?  Let us know in the comments below. And be sure to check out our Ammo & Reloading section for our favorite picks for each caliber.

Written By

Matthew Collins
Matthew Collins is a writer, editor, competitive shooter, hobby-level gunsmith and general firearms enthusiast. He has a background in the entertainment industry and currently works as one of our awesome writers in the field.

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Conversation

94 Comments

Join the discussion

  • 1
    One advantage of shooting steel cased ammo at the range is cleanup. All cases have to be policed up after the shooting session. I don’t always shoot steel cased ammo but when I do I’ve got a magnet attached to an 3 foot handle (I purchased it at Tractor Supply) and I just easily collect the spent cases with that.
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  • Great article! Yes, it definitely comes down to what the gun prefers. I have an almost new Taurus G2C that shoots brass reliably (less than 1,000 rounds fired) that I tried to feed Russian TulAmmo 9mm rounds and I experienced the worst jam in my life. I had to use a rubber mallet to clear it. It simply refused to chamber a 2nd round. The only way to fire it was one round at a time. Even then, sometimes I had to tap the slide to fully close the chamber. That same ammo ran FLAWLESSLY in my Diamondback DB9. So now I'm going to try some Monarch zinc plated steel 9mm to see how that runs in those two. My AR15 seems to eat steel or brass .223 just fine. So far, I've only fed my AK steel 7.62x39 and have not experienced any issues. I'm going to try brass in that one next. Now, if I ever get into reloading, then yes, it will be brass for everything!
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  • 2
    I shoot steel case 9mm in my HK. I shoot once a week and put 50 rounds of Scorpion through it. No problems, I clean it every 150 rounds
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  • 3
    I shoot a lot of steel cased ammo and so far have never had a misfeed, jam or misfire. The ammo used is Wolf or TulAmmo. Loading your magazine correctly can solve feeding issues if you are having misfeeds. Shooting steel ammo in my Ruger mini 14 or my Windham AR has not been a problem and my weapons are not the most expensive but I enjoy the fun of recreational shooting as much as anyone.
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    • Thomas H Sabgash

      WTF? How the heck do you load an AR magazine "Incorrectly"?????
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      • Raymond

        Some magazines allow the rounds to sit SLIGHTLY (fraction of a mm) too far forward. So after loading them, slap the magazine against your hand to slide all the rounds all the way to the back of the magazine. Basically, you don't want the tip of the bullet to snag on the edge of the mag as it is trying to feed.
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        • LazrBeam

          In Vietnam we used to authoritatively tap the back of the magazine against our “steel pot”.
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  • 2
    Thank you kindly for a very informative article. As for my personal preference, it will be brass. Reasoning: I am getting into reloading as a fun hobby and prefer consistency. Thanks again.
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  • 5
    I bought 500 rounds of steel case Wolf .38 Special for my Ruger SP101 revolver because of the great price. The rounds fire accurately and I can't tell a difference from brass case. After 250 rounds, no failures to fire. The only problem is that the steel casings don't extract well from the cylinder after the third or fourth set of five rounds when the revolver warms up. I have to push the casings out from the other side with a cleaning rod. After doing this a few times, I switched back to brass and have had no further issues with extraction.
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  • 1
    I just read this whole debate about steel vs brass and how some guns can fire either and some get the steel casings stuck and how some guns need the brass ect... But on part of the original comment was what bullets Penetrate better steel or brass and talked about how the lead and brass are heavier and are more Malibu and let out less gas and blowback so they run cleaner than steel steal, my question would be what if you just had a brass bullet that had a steel core and would that solve the issue? My knowledge on guns and ammo is very new and I don't know, I just want to learn and find these topics very interesting! Thanks
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  • 2
    Keep in mind I just bought my 1st AR and the 2nd time at range using steel was a horrible experience with every 2nd or 3rd round not feeding from magazine. I did not know this could be an issue until I asked someone in the lane next to mine what might be going on and they stated steel is known to jam and/or not feed properly.
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    • Craig

      I've never had a problem with Stella in any gun a lot of people think they are smarter then the average bear lol are you sure you weren't using 5.56 instead of 223 ? There's a difference ? Also is it a cheap gun one that was built ? Does it have the right bolt the right recoil spring was the barrel installed properly ? You know if it was properly head spaced ...extractor problems...also magazines will cause this ! For some arm chair quarter back to just look over and say oh yeah I only use lake city ammo in my guns not that cheap steel is absurd ....I guess the true test would be to run some brass but make sure it's 5.56 or 223 per what's written on your barrel!
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    • Jason

      I also did not realize you are not allowed to use steel at the range we use and felt like an idiot when I found out after shooting 100 rounds. Now I have 400 rounds of pretty much useless steel .223
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      • Raymond

        Hi Jason! If you still have those 400 rounds of "useless steel" .223s, I might be interested in buying them from you! My AR seems to eat steel just fine.
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      • George H Steele

        Usually, when "steel" ammo is prohibited at a range, it is prohibited if the BULLET is steel - not if the CASE is steel. The reason is that steel backstops meant to contain bullets may be penetrated by steel bullets - considered "armor-piercing" by some - damaging the backstop, whereas brass- or gilding metal-covered lead bullets will not.

        In addition, there may be concerns about ricochets that can occur with steel bullets that would not happen with the softer, deformable conventional lead core bullets with copper, brass, or gilding metal jackets.

        Often, there is a magnet at each shooting point so that you can test the bullet's composition. A normal bullet, whether in a steel or brass case, will not be attracted by the magnet. A steel bullet, whether in a steel or brass case, will be. That ammunition is usually what is prohibited. Do not go by appearance; steel bullets can be copper or brass washed, so their appearance is deceptive when it comes to their composition.

        Check with the rangemaster to be sure. There's no real reason to exclude steel-CASED ammo unless the range recycles brass for a profit, and doesn't want to intermingle steel cases with brass cases, or have to sort them out of the brass. Frankly, that's laziness, because steel cases are easy to separate out - with a magnet!
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        • Jojo Harris

          Palmetto State Armory, at least at some of their ranges, does not allow steel or aluminum cased ammo. That is funny because they make and sell AK rifles, and sell Tula ammo, frequently on sale so it’s the cheapest AK ammo they have. If you buy a PSA AK rifle, and by Tula ammo from PSA, you must take the rifle to a competitor’s range to shoot it!
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          • George H Steele

            Now that's logic befitting the current state of affairs in this country; sort of like "you can have free speech as long as you don't say anything" . . . (;-)
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  • 2
    Great information !Answered a lot of questions.
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  • 1
    Excellent and informative article. One of the best I have read on this topic.
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  • 2
    I recently bought a Taurus GC3 9mm and shot my first magazine with Monarch steel ammo. It failed to extract the very first shot. I re-racked and continued and had 1 Fail in it. I switched to cheap brass ammo and out of 100 rounds only 1 failed to fire. No extraction failures though. Hope this helps someone.
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