Updated 9.21.23: Complete overhaul with new products based on recent testing.
When our guns, knives, and other gadgets run smooth, they are reliable
We selected a mixture of oil, grease, and CLP options to test on various guns and knives to see what each brought to the party.
Some of these products were tried and true for me; some were new, but I enjoyed using them all to lather up my goods.
Some might think that lube is lube and that they’re all the same, but this article will help point out the pros and cons of each and help you narrow down the best fit.
THE QUICK LIST
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Editor’s Pick
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Best for Competition
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Best General Purpose
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Best Environmentally Friendly Oil
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Editor’s Pick CLP
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Best Grease
Table of Contents
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Why You Should Trust Us
We here at Pew Pew Tactical have cleaned a lot of guns…like a lot. We’ve spent countless hours scrubbing, greasing, and oiling our firearms, so we know a thing or two about which products work and which don’t.
Alongside our writers who have experience in competition, law enforcement, and recreational shooting, we’ve come up with a list of what we think is the best gun oils, grease, and CLP based on our hands-on experiences using these over several months (and in some cases, years).
Best Gun Oils
1. M-Pro 7
This oil was new to me but came out as the overall favorite.
When using M-Pro 7, there was a light odor in the air, but not in a bad way; some might say it was nostalgic. The smell reminded me of touring the inside of a battleship.
The consistency and color were similar to coconut milk, and I found it easy to apply across various knives and guns.
M-Pro 7 kept all my guns operating well without worrying about excessive cleaning or reapplication. It whatever you wipe down with a nice light and clean shine.
Prices accurate at time of writing
Prices accurate at time of writing
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2. Lucas Extreme
This oil is my favorite for competition purposes and great for speed and precision shooters.
Lucas Oil is well known in the automotive industry, but did you know they also dabble in the firearms realm? This oil is very thin and has a long, skinny applicator for precise use.
It smells like I’m back in time leaning over the hood of a ’69 Chevy installing a double barrel carburetor, making it likely the go-to for the wrench monkeys here.
I like to use this oil, but I have also found that it needs to be applied more frequently.
Prices accurate at time of writing
Prices accurate at time of writing
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3. Hoppes 9
This oil is a classic staple from your grandpa’s gun cleaning kit that has stood the test of time.
Hoppes 9 is the definition of “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it,” saying in the gun oil industry. Hoppes has been around since 1903 and has repeatedly proven its merit on this list.
The kit I received for this came with cleaning oil and lubricating oil separately, along with some cleaning cloths to apply and wipe down the oil.
It came with a fine tip applicator for the lubricating oil for those hard-to-reach spaces. This is it if you’re looking for a place to start with lubricants.
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3. Militec-1
This oil leans more towards the grease side of oil because it is thicker and multi-use.
Militec advises that their product can be used for automotive bearings and gears, off-road equipment, and other industrial applications such as conveyor belts and drilling equipment.
This is a multi-use one, so it’s a do-it-all all type oil.
In an end-of-times type scenario (you know, the one you’ve been thinking may come soon), this oil would be great to keep anything and everything running smooth and looking sexy, especially if it’s likely to get wet.
Prices accurate at time of writing
Prices accurate at time of writing
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4. Slip 2000
This oil made it on the list because of its unique, non-toxic, non-hazardous, and biodegradable attributes.
So many things these days seem “toxic,” and if you’re trying to remove that from everything in your life, including gun lube, Slip 2000 is the way to go.
Slip 2000 worked in my guns without issues, leaving a nice, mild shine. Interestingly enough, I thought the non-toxic, biodegradable stuff would smell funny, but it didn’t smell like much at all.
This oil came in a two-bottle configuration with a large and small applicator for big and small tasks.
Prices accurate at time of writing
Prices accurate at time of writing
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Best CLP
5. Break Free Wipes
The wipes from Break Free were an interesting concept and definitely piqued my interest.
Having never used CLP in the form of wipes before, I was excited and nervous to give it a try. I was mostly worried that it would be dry and not provide much cleaning effect when I used it.
I was pleasantly surprised to find that the wipes I used were soaked in CLP…but they worked really well without tearing.
This CLP lathered up and cleaned every surface area I used it on, from dirty guns to knives with duct tape residue on them (wiped right off).
The most interesting thing about Break Free wipes was that when I opened the packaging, I immediately got a faint odor of cardboard, followed by a pleasant aroma of almond-flavored coffee.
What a funny smell to come from a gun lube, but I love coffee and definitely wasn’t complaining.
Prices accurate at time of writing
Prices accurate at time of writing
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6. Ballistol
The oil from Ballistol and I have a love / hate relationship. Of all the options I tested, this product was hands down the best at cleaning any surface I used.
I dabbed some onto a towel and easily wiped an unidentified gunk off my work knife. This was something I had tried to clean off before but couldn’t.
The Ballistol was extremely effective and didn’t leave the knife feeling greasy afterward.
The other side of that coin with Ballistol is that it does NOT smell pleasant.
Interestingly, Ballistol can be used on everything, from leather to wood or metal surfaces, without a problem. Ballistol is another long-standing product that deserves a spot on this list of top gun lubricants.
Prices accurate at time of writing
Prices accurate at time of writing
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Best Grease
7. Mil-Comm
With only one grease in the test, Mil-Comm had one job, and it was effective.
Mil-Comm comes out of the small tube in thick white grease and is nice and slippery. The grease isn’t too bad in the smell department and leaves a dry-ish appearance on surfaces after being rubbed in.
This lubricant is good at sitting on metal surfaces and extending their life by keeping them operating smoothly.
Mil-Comm can also be used for industrial purposes and is even used by Boeing for some of their airplane applications.
An interesting fact about Mil-Comm is that they boast their grease keeps metal parts moving in temperatures as low as -90 degrees.
Prices accurate at time of writing
Prices accurate at time of writing
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Oil vs. Grease vs. Lube: What’s the Difference?
Oil, grease, and lube have been used for centuries in various forms and origins. Where there is friction, there is a need for lubricant.
Because of time, oxidation, and other superscientific factors, there is also a need for protection, which oil and grease can provide.
My first thought about oil, grease, and lube is that they all are lubricants in application, so for ease of explanation, I’ll use the word lubricant to describe all three. For different applications, there will be different needs and desires of the user for the lubricant.
Two identifiable differences in lubricants would be texture and viscosity. Texture and viscosity may sound odd to discuss when going over gun lubricants, but I use them as a quick way to determine what the lubricant is best designed for.
The thicker the lubricant, such as grease, the better it is to coat something that needs long-term protection.
The middle-of-the-road option is CLP (cleaner lubricant protectant), which has a different viscosity due to its mixture with a cleaning agent to help clean gear and provide a protected finish.
Oil is the thinnest and smoothest lubricant, which provides the best performance under high-heat applications but can still leave a nice shine on barrels and blades.
Final Thoughts
Having at least one of each is the way to go. I can tell you that I now keep a small bottle of Mpro7 in my go-bag, but I still have some CLP in my cleaning kit.
Either way, you need to have something on hand.
Find what works best for you. But if you need some guidance, any of the above recommendations should work.
Got any thoughts about gun oil? What’s your preferred product? Let me know in the comments below! Want more? Check out our picks for Best Gun Cleaning Kits.
FAQ
Can you use WD40 for gun oil?
WD stands for water displacement and is not a viable gun oil. Do not use it on your firearms!
Is motor oil ok for use in guns?
Yes, motor oils such as Mobile 1 work reliably in engines that get hot and move much more than guns.
What does CLP stand for in firearms?
Cleaner, Lubricant and Preservative.
106 Leave a Reply
Watching a recent video where the medium was a actual friction producing machine.. Clenzoil was rated at 1.5 points in total wear and nicely enough Break Free was next at 4.14 points due to the ability to protect from producing a larger friction scar so Clenzoil actually overall was the better and Break Free was 2nd.. I suggest you cross reference and gather more data!! You may find a better solution to friction reducing and reduction as well as protecting and cleaning!! I myself was a Break Free CLP user but now Clenzoil will be lubing my hardware and of course using Break Free as well and creating a Super CLP!!
80 Below 100% Full Synthetic Extreme Temperature Sporting Oil is hands down the largest step forward in the 100 years of firearm and outdoor lubricants became a thing. About the only oil with specs that aren't exaggerated snake oil elling points, but prove to be chemical absolutes.
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My friends and I are professional sporting clay and trap shooters. We shoot weapons in the highest of price ranges for shotguns. 80b oil is honestly the best and only oil we trust on our weapons. Only down fall to the oil is that it's a smaller company and not something anyone can easily find at their local outdoor store.
Anyways, for 12 bucks on Amazon its about the best buy for when your equipment and gear can outperform the elements. The great outdoors just a lil greater man!!
The best Gun CLP I have use is The Original Gun Oil , it doesn’t smell, thin and easy to use . It’s produced by a company that is by Veterans. I highly recommend this product!!!. Wayne A
There's a video labeled "Gun oil vs. Polar Vortex: Who Wins?" Where a guy shows some gun oils in a tiny little covered plastic cup so you can see what it looks like and how it moves in a room at 70°F and then left outside overnight at -20°F. It shows Hoppe's #9 oil OG orange bottle, Lucas Extreme Gun Oil, Rem Oil, Slip2000 EWL, ALL FROZE SOILD! So it is worth mentioning that all of those are garbage if you live anywhere that it's really cold..... just really surprised that Hoppes is on there with all the other generic good performing products available because although around forever it really is best just stay away from except they're cleaning and other products!?
So there's a less-known product that's served me well called Zero Friction by Pro Shot. I saw it was synthetic(no gumminess and breakdown at high temps) and picked up a can. Sprayed a Sig C3 down with it, packed it away. I pulled it out to shoot a month or two later and the slide and trigger were noticeably smoother. I had to go back to the closet and see what I bought! It has always kept the powder deposits in solution, never crusted. A simple cleaner washdown(Rectorseal KO or BC Powderblast) cleans my guns up spotless. A light coat of the oil and I'm good for another several hundred rounds. Seems to have missed the hot item craze, so it's priced reasonably.
I love the stuff too! Use it on my glock @ trigger disconnector & pro shot Pro Gold Grease or Superlube on rails, locking block & barrel. Great combo!
Has anyone used Blue Magic Oil for there guns? This stuff has been around for sometime. I'll be interested to know if anyone has tested that oil and compared to some of these others.
I was using "Gun Butter" oil on my Beretta PX4 Storm Subcompact, and getting a huge number of failures to feed. (Only Spear Gold Dot shot reliably all the time in my Beretta.) I then read a comment that I should use grease, not oil, so I looked for the best grease. Wilson Combat has an excellent reputation for quality, so I went to their online store and found Ultima-Lube II grease. There were several varieties listed, so I got the one that was for the most severe conditions. I Immediately saw a huge reduction in failures to feed. And soon after I started using it, there were zero failures to feed with my Beretta. That's all I use now to lubricate any gun.
Lots of words + not many facts = wasted time. I don't like it when internet writers waste my time.
Then stop wasting our time telling us you wasted time
I suppose the best "Gun Oil" is not the same as "best oil for guns." Automatic transmission fluid worked the best for me at a few multi-day 1k round courses. Gun oil worked about the same as spray-on lithium grease, not very good at all. Hopefully, soon the gun oil manufacturers will realize their products need to work better than the lubricants that already exist.
I've used ATF - and the synthetics now available are even better, the one major issue I have is the scent they deliberately blend which is a no go for hunting. It stinks and in my experience is highly disturbing to game. Hunters go so far to keep their clothing in bags and to change boots on arrival, some even stomp cow patties to blend into the local woods smells. ATF for range guns is great, not for hunting.
I use Lucas Gun Oil, and in the beginning it had NO smell at all, the next bottles I purchased had a faint grape scent. Those are a few years old now, with 1 oz available at a major auto parts store for less than $7. It's still overpriced compared to quart bottles of ATF, but worth it for the lack of smell and it's performance. One issue with some oils is they will sling off in operation, Lucas is noted for not doing it and is the preferred oil for a well known full auto rental range in Vegas as customers have a habit of showing up wearing business attire - conventions are a thing there. No more oily shirts after rental is a plus for them and a good thing for hunters, too.
I have yet to understand in two decades of online reviews of gun oil why no one raises this issue - if hunters go to the effort of smelling like anything but a greasy old pickup, then why use an auto oil that adds to that?
Tested...but not really. This is not a very useful review.
I was happy with Hoppes grease , but tried Hoppes Oil on the rails: dried out after only 140 rounds , had issues feeding.
I tried CLP on the rails but that didn’t make it through a 5 hr class.
I tried Ballistol. It was ok.
Winner for was Gun Shield oil for protection. Steel Shield Solvent cleaner was equal or better than Hoppes 9 cleaner. The SS grease lasted 600 rounds with no issue as does Hoppes grease.
Greased rails worked best for me with no FTF’s.
Great guide here to what are the better options on the shelf. For what it's worth, I use the MIL-COMM military TW25B synthetic grease and I had to double-check the math here -- the 1.5 Oz Tube works out to be about $13 an ounce (not $20) and it's a better value because it stays in place, lasts longer, than your typical gun lube = more value per ounce.
What type of tests did you perform? Project Farm on YouTube showed his extensive scientific testing and his results contradict yours.
Uh.. not to put too fine a point on it but Hoppe's #9 Bore Cleaner is a CLEANER -- a solvent! Not an oil! You have to follow up with oil. The only thing from Hoppe's you show is the cleaner, never once did you mention the oil! Remoil would also work.
Pro Tip: For Hoppe's 9 bore cleaner to be effective, with yoru rifle pointing SLIGHTLY muzzle-down, pour some down the barrel from the breech end when you get home from shooting, preferably while the barrel's still warm. Let it sit 15-20 minutes, then flip the rifle over and do it again to get the other half of the barrel. You should be rewarded with a steady drip of blue-green dissolved copper. Then run your patches through to get rid of it, then couple of oily patches. If you just ram the bore with patches soaked in bore cleaner you won't remove much copper. LET IT SIT!
Hos internet gun journalism really fallen this far, that people can't remember what hoppe's bore cleaner's for and how it's used? It's not a lubricant. It eats lubricants and copper for lunch. Has to be followed up with dry patches and then an oily patch or two.
VOICE OF SANITY CRYING IN THE WILDENESS: THANK YOU DEAR SIR.
Hoppes offers a #9 oil as well as cleaner. I know, because I have some and have used it. Look at the article again - the oil is in the orange bottle, just like the one I use!
Lots of custom gunsmiths including guys who build 3 gun competition pieces use Mobil One SYNTHETIC 5W-30 on literally every gun they work on. I've used it ever since speaking to some of those gunsmiths years ago and it seems to be superior in every way to stuff sold in a sporting goods store.
What about the old stand-by Clenzoil? Nobody seems to remember that this WW2 Vet mixed up what was most likely the original CLP and put it on the market back in the 1950's. The Farm Project utube video "Best CLP" seem to confirm (for me) that the old stuff still works pretty darned good! Actually, amazing well!
Hoppes bore cleaner. Breakfree CLP and a "touch", a touch of Lucas oil... and a bore snake to help!
First, it’s not pronounced Hops. It’s pronounced Hoppies. There are videos made by Hoppes employees who pronounce it Hoppies. Do some research.
Actual practical testing of several popular CLPs was recently (Jan 2022) done on the Project Farm YouTube channel.
The question is whether you want one that performs well in freezing temperatures, or one that performs well is hot & corrosive conditions. Because they might do well in one or the other, but not both. I've been using Ballistol for my modest storage and routine maintenance needs, but was surprised at how poorly it performed in testing under harsher conditions. For freezing temperatures you want Break Free CLP, for hot & sweaty you want Clenzoil - they perform significantly better than the competition.
Agreed 99.99%.Except here in Nevada add Lucas CLP... we have no rust problems here, it coats a little longer.
Gr8 article.
I tend to use the “gun scrubber” spray can sold at a local BIG 5 followed by whatever “gun oil” they have on sale. If I have a choice, I choose hoppe’s = solid brand. I must admit to using hair clipper oil a couple of times. Am I ruining my tools when I do so ?
This was a great article and your facetiousness is great. As a retired soldier, I've never seen an person wearing an ACH/MICH helmet where the helmet is completely filled in with a users head, with no room to spare.
Good advice as well, most of my rifles have nickle boron bolt carriers as their ease of use in the maintenance of my rifles has grown on me. Despite this, I clean and lube as if it was a normal steel BCG. Some people never clean nickel boron coated parts, that's foolish if you ask me. But still, great recommendations and fun to read article.
Bought a new german gun oil, its called Nano Gun Oil Universal.
Never had such a nice LP in my whole life!
Before was always and only Hoppe's products. But I've used Breakfree CLP on all of my firearms exclusively since it hit the market with rave reviews from the military. That was about thirty or forty years ago. It has worked for me in sub-zero temps in Michigan to Mississippi's hot humid deer seasons. I've found no need to experiment with anything else. That said, I love how these articles always bring out all the expert opinions. The coments are more fun than the article!
I use a lot of CRC Beakclean on metal parts. Best degreaser out there (not the green stuff - worthless). I also use a lot of Deep Creep for bores, breech face, bolts, etc. And I still use Hoppe's occasionally.
For lube I've experimented and settled back on Break-Free CLP. I shy away from motor oil because I don't know enough about the additives. I use grease very sparingly. I live in the desert and there is enough dust and grit floating around to turn grease into lapping compound.
20 years military, CLP and LSA
Motor oil in a SHTF emergency
Im a TW25b guy. Or lucas oil.
Is this a troll article?
I have been using breakthrough clean technologies products for a couple of years now. I started with their grease and then used their gun oil. Their product keeps my weapons happy.
Hoppe's is indeed NOT pronounced "hopps". Source from Youtube:
/watch?v=ebogB1HocRA
Just recently received Black Rambo Carbon Destroyer and Accuracy Oil. I have been very impressed with the cleaning ability, lubing ability and aromatics! I will be trying the copper destroyer and crystal clear optics cleaner at some point.
Hoppe's No. 9 gun bore cleaner (seen in the pics) is not a lube!!! Jesus Christ. How could the author and the editor mix it up with Hoppe's gun oil?
Good old high temp red lithium soap grease you get at WalMart is all you need for an AK. A $5 can will last generations.
It's pronounced Hop-ees. Young people these days....I swear.....
People who pronounce it Hop-ees also say ambidex-tree-us...
Much BS without any testing or bonafide recommendations...
Wd 40 has always work aim avoid hunter and my buddy or to it just works
Oh yeah, I will use Motul fully synthetic motor oil in a pinch. I figure if its made to the German standard to handle turbos or superchargers, it can handle some use out in the field. That being said, I wouldn't use motor oil for storage as it is good to keep in mind that motor oil is continually pumped to keep it in place. Great for some quick shooting though.
Honerable mention...Eesox. Been using it for years "only on certain parts that I deem CLP to be used on", but it has never failed me and has also beaten out Ballistol as well as Break Free, in a salt water mist test for rust.
N Pro 7 cleaner....slip 2000 EWL oil....Milcom TW25B grease....EEZOX long term storage.
Weapon Shield. Nothing better.
Just discovered it while digging deep into some online research to better maintain my 10 firearms without having to worry about missing this or that, harsh chems, safe disposal etc. Seems a lot of people are cool with just the bare minimal. Personally I want the most comprehensive care while not having to hunt down a bunch of different clps, degreasers, solvents etc. Used Weapon Shield for the first time last night with my OTIS tactical cleaning kit on an absolutely FILTHY M70 AK... Its over. This is it right here. WEAPON SHIELD
I just saw an old commercial from Hoppe's and the company pronounces it with 2 syllables, as in Hop-eez. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3eRGnXhkbk
I’m seeing Shooter Lube all over the net. Does it live up to the hype?
I been using synthetic motor grease (sparingly) on my guns for a short while. Attended many beginners and intermediate courses with pistols and rifles lubed by Valvoline moly-fortified grease and never had any issues. One pound cost me six dollars and will probably last several lifetimes.
Once tried using white lithium grease on a rifle. Took it to the range, it belched giant smoke clouds in just about every color of the rainbow. made me sick. I was alone so I didnt look stupid, but will never make that mistake again. Also it left yellow hard gunk all over the insides that was a pain to clean off. I had to experiment with several cleaners to get it looking decent again. White lithium is great for moving parts that dont get too hot. Guns get hot.
I recommend NOT experimenting unless its with a weapon you dont mind damaging.
Jim Fuller, formerly at Rifle Dynamics, used to recommend white lithium grease for AK47 lubrication.
TW25B info - Temperature range: – 89°F (- 67°C) to +450°F (+232°C) $17.99 for 1.5oz
Super Lube info - Temperature range: – 49°F (- 45°C) to +450°F (+232°C) $6.99 for 3oz.
I've been using Super Lube forever and its never not impressed. While I am not going into the Artic, Afghanistan or a jungle, it is really good for most people's needs. I use a solvent like kroil penetrating oil to break up foiling and after everything i s spotless I place some Super Lube on the metal on metal areas. My guns seem to like this. I just shot my 10/22 using 3 different dirty brands and I didn't start getting failure to ejects until after 1600 rds. I did mag after mag after mag and finally got some hiccups with the rifle. I may buy the TW25B for special occasions I guess, but for most things Super Lube is awesome. At least in my opinion.
Mobil 1 synthetic grease, Mobil 1 synthetic oil (0W-40 or 5W-50), Wipe-Out Bore Foam, Kroil and Breakfree CLP as needed, and Eezox for rust prevention. I used to use Shooter's Choice bore solvent, but since that brand became MC-7 the formula changed and they added too many variants: "lead remover," "copper remover," "bore cleaner," "extra strength bore cleaner," "shotgun cleaner." I cannot tell who is on first. A quart of Mobil 1 oil and a tube of Mobil 1 grease is enough to last a lifetime. Ballistol mixed with water is useful when cleaning after shooting corrosive ammo.
I'm with you as to the pronunciation. I've been shooting for nearly 60 years and that has always been the way it was pronounced. Plus the smell evokes memories of good times. When my dor smells it she know fun is about to happen.
Funny. It says Hoppe's (pronounced "hops" for the unfamiliar). No, it's actually pronounced "Hop-eez". Now I'm wondering about the value of the rest of the 'familiarization'.
We originally used (Issue) CLP, good stuff but attracted dirt and dust. Switched to Tetra Gun OOB411. Didn't dry out (evaporate) like CLP, but attracted static dust, and froze in the cargo hold. Worked with Tetra Gun to develop the TW-25B, didn't freeze in the plane, didn't attract static charged dust when landing in dusty jungle environments. TW25B transferred to Kleenbore, then to Mil-Com. Best lube ever. Just smells bad. You can lube a gun with it, put it away for 20 years, pick it up and it will be ready to go.
Learned years ago about using good motor oil for a lube. If it's good enough for engines and turbos, it was good enough for me, my co-workers and students. No problems and approaching 2 decades of high use in all temps.
Cost is about 20 cents an ounce.
I’ve also heard a 50/50 mix of motor oil and transmission oil. The tranny oil helps break down carbon build up for easier cleaning and the motor oil; well we know what that does.
Transmission fluid is a hydraulic fluid for use in a closed (clean) system, it is not meant to be a lubricant or a cleaner. Do not use transmission fluid.
Oil for a turbo diesel engine is however designed to lubricate and will have additives to deal with carbon and other particulate. Full synthetic oil can also be blended with synthetic bearing grease to make a thick oil (or thin grease if you prefer).
I use Hoppe' s Bore cleaner to clean, Hoppe's gun oil on the barrel and usally Lucas Extreme Duty on the slide rails
G96 is the best, and best smelling CLP. GREAT stuff.
Also, be careful what you use to clean certain lined barrels with.
Has anyone ever tried Boeshield T-9? It is by far the best anti corrosion lube for extremely salty areas. I use it on some pretty expensive boats but never tried it on a gun. I have compared it side by side with a ton of marine sprays and non work like it for corrosion prevention. I just do t want to experiment on my firearms.
Use it on table saw tops. Great stuff.
Carburetor cleaner for bore scrubbing.
Then Lube with motor oil. Lite touch of clear heavy duty grease. On slide rails on bore in places where it touches the slide. And that is it. Do not invent things that worked. Gun is a tool, it is not your d..ck to lube it whole day long.
Battleborn grease is pretty good and one small jar lasts a long time.
I clean with Kano Kroil and Hoppe's #9 in a 50/50 mix. Air compressor blowgun to remove left over solvents. Rubber gloves and eye protection necessary.
Lubricate with Mil-Comm MC2500 oil and TW25B grease. Besides their synthetic components Mil-Comm's "magic ingredient" is teflon which bonds to the metal surfaces and provides lubrication even when dry.
Note: MC2500 has less teflon and is thinner than MC3500. MC3500 is midway between a grease and an oil and again has less teflon than their TW25B grease.
After finding Mil-Comm products, I now use my left over Break Free CLP for automotive and yard tools.
You can also mix one part TW25B grease four parts 99% isopropyl alcohol is a spray bottle. Give is a shake each time you use it and generously spray it into hard to reach places. The alcohol quickly evaporates leaving a thin coating of the protective grease behind. This is not my idea. It was posted on Mil-Comm's old website.
They also suggested using straight 99% alcohol for cleaning, and it works well, especially for nasty 22LR's. Since the 99% alcohol has NO lubrication or protective properties, the freshly cleaned metal is vulnerable to rust or corrosion. It is IMPERATIVE to follow up with the grease/alcohol spray and further lubrication.
No, it's not prounced "hops." Call the company and ask them, doofus.
Even if you’re right, does name calling solve anything?
What about a solvent recommendation? You did lubricant, 3-in-1, and grease. I think we’re missing other starting points for the protectants you mentioned as well.
Hoppe's 9 Bore Cleaner (what was photographed in the article) is the solvent. The writer completely left off the fact that it's a two-step with Hoppe's -- first the boar cleaner, then the oil.
Don't use Tetra products it has a bad reaction when exposed to salt. Guns have rusted in as little as two hours from my sweat.
"Good ole Hoppe’s #9 (pronounced “hops” for those unfamiliar)[...]"
It's actually pronounced HOP-eez. I wondered myself until I watched a couple of their videos on YouTube.
youre right..i never would have thought that until i watched the Hoppe's youtube channel...i always corrected ppl and swore it was pronounced "hops"...i stand corrected and now i know..thanks!
The article makes no mention of air temperature. Lubricants perform differently at different temperatures. Some freeze; some run. And a firearm is like any other machine: If it spins, oil it; if it slides; grease it. No mention is made of which ingredient dissolves lead and which copper. Snake oil never says what it contains. If you're going to stake your life on a firearm, you want to know what you're lubing it with - no? The Internet is full of people who make claims for this and that, so I won't claim to have the answers, but you need to do the work and find them for these questions and a few others.
WHAT NONE OF YOU INCLUDING THE AUTHUR GETS IS THE FACT THAT ALL THESE RECOMMENDATIONS ARE COMPLETELY A WASTE OF MONEY BESIDES THE DEDICATED SOLVENTS ONLY. AUTHOR STATES HE DOESN'T KNOW AND NOBODY KNOWS WHAT TYPE TO USE. THAT IS INCORRECT, FACTUALLY INCORRECT!! I'M HERE TO DISPELL THE BULLSHIT SURROUNDING THIS TOPIC. ALL YOU WANT IS SIMPLE PLAIN OLE LAXATIVE OIL (MINERAL OIL) YES THE STUFF THAT MAKE YOU SHIT!! THE OIL THAT'S SAFE INSIDE YOUR BODY AND OUTSIDE YOUR BODY. THE OIL THAT COST A FEW BUCKS AT WAL MART OR ANY WHERE ELSE AND 1 BOTTLE WILL LAST FOR YEARS ALL AT A FEW BUCKS. THAT IS THE BASIS FOR EVERY OTHER OIL OUT HERE. I'VE ONLY BEEN USING MINERAL OIL FOR 25 YEARS. I'VE USED OTHERS AND NONE DO BETTER THAN PLAIN MINERAL OIL. IT'S WHAT THE MANUFACTORER USES. IT'S WHAT HOPPES LUBE OIL IS WITH PERFUME. THAT'S IT PEOPLE. THIS IS NOT A SECRET OR SOMEONE LOOKING FOR SOME SPECIAL SAUCE. I'M NOT KIDDING YOU PEOPLE. I HAVE A METALLURGY BACKGROUND AND I DO KNOW WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT.. HERE'S WHAT YOU NEED TO DO FROM HERE ON OUT UNTIL YOU ARE DEAD. GETS SOME GOOD FLANNEL CLOTH AND CUT IT INTO 20 INCH OR SO SQUARES, TAKE A COUPLE TABLESPOONS AND DOUSE THE NEWLY CUT CLOTH YOU'VE CUT WITH PINKING SHEARS AND GET YOURSELF A PLASTIC ZIP LOCK BAG AND ALLOW IT TO DISPERSE INTO THE CLOTH INSIDE THE BAG OVER A FEW HOURS AND BOOM YOU'VE GOT YOUR PROTECTIVE RAG. SIMPLY REAPPLY OIL TO THE RAG OVER TIME WHEN IT FINALLY GETS DRY. WIPE DOWN YOUR "METAL" GUNS AND GUN PARTS WHEN YOU ARE ABOUT TO PUT THEM AWAY AND THAT IS ALL YOU HAVE TO DO FOR PROTETECTIVE MEASURES. ANOTHER TRICK ON THE SOLVENT CLEANING SIDE IS USING MINERAL SPIRITS FOR CLEANING. HOPPES 9 SOLVENT IS OK TO USE IN THE BARREL, BUT PARTS CLEANING ETC SHOULD BE DONE WITH PLAIN CHEAP OLE MINERAL SPIRITS (PAINT THINNER, BUT USE MINERAL SPIRITS AS ITS CHEAPER AND LESS STINKY) WITH A TOOTH BRUSH OR A BRASS BRUSH. THIS IS ALL YOU NEED. NOT WHAT THE AUTHUR SAID ABOUT CONSTANTY CHANGING WITH THE BEST PRODUCTS ON THE MARKET WHATEVER THAT NONSENSE MEANS. YES, THE GUYS IN THE 60'S THAT ARE PROBABLY USING MINERAL OIL ARE RIGHT. THAT COULD BE CALLED THE BEST TRADITIONAL GUN OIL. SIDENOTE I WAS BORN IN THE 80'S. THIS IS METAL WE ARE TALKING ABOUT AND THIS IS WHAT WILL NEVER CHANGE ABOUT GUNS THEY ARE ALWAYS JUST METAL AND YOU ARE JUST PROTECTING METAL NOT GUNS, METAL!! TO HELL WITH THE BEST PRODUCTS ON THE MARKET. THESE PRODUCTS ARE BASED WITH MINERAL OIL AND HAVE SOME PERFUME IN THEM AND SUDDENLY ITS HOPPES LUBE OR THIS OR THAT!! I HATE THE MYSTERY AROUND THIS TOPIC. IT'S SO SIMPLE REALLY. LEAVE THE MARKET ALONE. THEY ONLY EXIST TO TAKE YOUR MONEY FROM YOU AND HAVE NOTHING TO OFFER YOU THAT MINERAL OIL AND MINERAL SPIRITS CANT GIVE YOU. ALWAYS REMEMBER GUN METALS ARE SO HARD, UNBELIEVABLY HARD AND THAT FRICTION IS NEVER THE ISSUE. THE PARTS WILL RIDE TO TOGETHER FOREVER AND BURNISH (MARRYING OF PARTS ETC). SOME PARTS WILL WEAR OVER TIME AND LOOSEN UP BUT THEY DIDN'T WEAR BECAUSE THEY DIDNT HAVE OIL FLOWING THROUGH THEM. DO NOT SOAK YOUR GUNS IN OIL PEOPLE. ONLY KEEP A MICROSCOPIC FILM ON THE METAL PARTS ONLY. ALUMINUM DOESN'T NEED PROTECTING SO KEEPS THE OIL AWAY. WE DON'T NEED OIL EVERY WHERE ACCUMULATING DUST, DIRT ETC CAUSING AN ABRASIVE PASTE THAT WILL ACTUALLY WEAR THE PARTS. THAT IS ALL THAT IS NEEDED FOR THE PROTECTION OF THEM. ON AR FAMILY RIFLES YES IT'S OK TO USE ENOUGH TO PREVENT THE PARTS FROM FREEZING ETC BUT NOT TO MUCH. I PERSONLLY USE A 27 GAUGE SYRINGE NEEDLE THAT I CUT THE TIP OFF OF IT TO PREVENT STABBING AND A SYRINGE FULL OF MINERAL OIL FOR PRECISE APPLICATIONS LIKE ON EVERY TYPE OF FIREARM MECHANISM POSSIBLE. THIS IS GOOD TO CONCENTRATE THE OIL INTO A CERTAIN AREA ONLY TO PREVENT IT FROM GETTING EVERYWHERE.. IVE BEEN USING THE SAME SYRINGE AND NEEDLE FOR 12 YEARS ON ALL MY COUNTLESS NUMBER OF GUNS. THE WHOLE USING MOTOR OIL FALLACY IS JUST SOMETHING PEOPLE DO TO SATISFY THERE BELIEF SYSTEMS. THEY THINK MACHINE GUNS ARE LIKE CAR PARTS THAT NEED OIL FLOWING THROUGH THEM AND THAT'S JUST BULLSHIT THINKING. I HAVE A MACHINE GUN AND I KEEP IT AS DRY AS POSSIBLE WITH ONLY WHATS NEEDED WITH MINERAL OIL. JUST USE MINERAL OIL WHERE NEEDED IT'S JUST THAT SIMPLE PEOPLE. PLEASE BELIEVE WHAT I'M TELLING YOU. IF YOU INSTITUTE THESE PROCESSES YOU WILL FIND THAT IT NOT ONLY WORKS BUT WILL SAVE YOU SO MUCH DAMN TIME AND MONEY. I HAVE NOTHING TO GAIN FROM THIS OTHER THAN GETTING PEOPLE TO STOP FOLLOWING THE GUN OIL MARKET.
So what do you use for a solvent then? He doesn’t mention any that aren’t 3-in-1.
He said mineral spirits (paint thinner)
Mineral spirits is non paint thinner
Agree with the mineral oil. Cheap and non toxic. A little dab will do ya.
Some good info here, much taken from gunblue490, its good to give credit to people whos ideas you respect .
STOP SHOUTING! I can't even read this.
Gunblue wants his advice to be taken seriously, not stolen and made out to be someone else's law of the land...
Anything Lucas oil makes, I've had great luck with. Their CLP is top notch, high Timken rating on gun grease, and their oil in the needle tip bottle allows for precise application. Last I heard it's what Sig uses in their factory and my Sig 516 came boxed with a sample pack of the oil.
Gotta give the nod to M-Pro 7 products. I've used many different oils, lubes and greases to found M-Pro to work great!
M-Pro 7 Cleaning Kit from Eric's article on Best Gun Cleaning Kits is the best one I've used. It has both the M-Pro 7 Cleaner and Oil in the kit along with the brushes. It's my favorite cleaning and lubricating kit of all time.
Thanks Lorenzo...it's what I take in my large range bag!
Kano KROIL........I can't believe nobody has mentioned it.
Mr Collins, I love your sassy and humorous writing style.. Thanks for helping make pew pew entertaining as well as informative
Ive Found Lanox works well for most guns has lanolin which is good for protection and also as a lube also water resistant
dont over use it but is also good for your wood stock allways wipe off excess comes in a spray like WD 40
A huge fan of your write-ups, please keep them coming.
I like to use Ballistol or a good 3-in-1 to clean the average range day fouling, followed by a rub of some fantastic oil I have found made by Aquila in South Africa. Grew up with Ballistol and the smell takes me back to childhood and army days very quickly, but it costs a bit to be using every week, so I alternate with the 3-in-1. On the Aquila oil I bought a second hand rusted rifle once and a scrub with steel wool and that oil restored it to brand new condition in no time. All my guns go to sleep with that oil on since then.
i just use birchwood grease on sliding and Rem oil on everything else and shoot a lot so I don’t tear down every time-sprey n clean what I can reach then more thoural once a week or so- I find myself running more and more wet - is there any downside to running really wet ?
Yes, it's a terrible idea to run guns soaking wet. You are creating an abrasive paste being dust, dirt etc that will cause the parts to detoriate overy time. FACT! Keep the gun dry!!!! Only a microscopic level of protection is needed for the most part and if you need oil to prevent freezing of parts only use mineral oil. READ my reply above to this article.
Absolutely fantastic article. As mentioned; it's all about what your experience is and what works best for you. As a side note, back in the late '90s when there was relative worldwide peace (i.e. no huge troop deployments), my 81's platoon used Diet Coke to clean the Mortar Tubes. The U.S.M.C.'s budet at that time was about ten cents a year (there was somewhat serious talk about disbanding the Corps at that time), so cleaning supplies were no existent. For lube / protectant before we turned the systems back into the armory, I remember vaguely we used one Marine's Canola Oil that he used to cook is own meals with this really tiny electric stove in the barracks.
TW25B grease for your AK pattern rifles all day. Works fantastic.
I'm not an operator operating operationally, but Safariland CLP has done yeoman's work for the last few decades for me for my pistols and AR-pattern rifles. Hotter hell desert, cold ass Flagstaff winters, it just works.
I've tried a handful of 'wonder oils', and outside of M=Pro7, I've not really been impressed with one or more qualities in each one tried. Dries out too fast this one, too gummy that one, cakes up this one, works like crap on suppressed applications that one (big thing since I shoot a lot of suppressed range days)
Gunzilla is next on the 'try it out' list, however.
Tube of Mobile SHC grease, quart Mobile synthetic 5w20 and bottle of Hoppes solvent, The tube and quart will last a life time of weapon lubing.and get them at Walmart for chump change. Much cheaper than buying 1oz tubes of oil. Scam. A bag of qtips and some bristle brushes and old cut up T-shirts good to go. Air compressor is not necessary but is a huge help. Wear glasses or goggles.
I too, try stuff ... and currently like, for pistols anyway, Hoppe's Elite Foaming Gun Cleaner and Remington Rem Dri-lube. Non messy, non-toxic, both work great ... and don't attract crud. The teflon dri-lube is light, but I clean and lube after every range visit so I feel it protects adequately.
Slip2000
Slip EWL
I like Gunzilla, I use it on all my firearms.Been using it for years now
For basic cleaning "Hoppe's Elite" works great, but for lube "Militec-1" is my weapon of choice! First thing I do with a new gun is take it totally apart and strip all the oils and grease with brake cleaner or acetone; any good degreaser, then brush on Militec on all metal parts,Take a blow dryer and heat the parts, then brush on more oil, then I take compressed air and blow the oil in every nook and cranny. Heat again then wipe off excess. Reassemble lubing as normal with Militec. After this cleaning is a snap; nothing stick and many times all you have to do is wipe it down and re-lube normally,
G96 all the way!
What about the old Ed's red formula for gun cleaning and lubrication? Or in a pinch, how about kerosene or automatic transmission fluid for lubrication, two of the ingredients in Ed's Red. Has anybody ever actually looked at the ingredients or the safety data sheet of Hoppe's number 9? The ingredients might be eerily familiar if you've ever made Ed's Red.
Nope.
Best 3 in 1 is G96.
Smells great and can be used as a man's body spray.
Chicks will love it.
Oh, and never had a problem with using it on guns.
Amen! Been using it since the 80s. Never a problem. Love it!
... on you or guns?
anyone have any experience with shooter lube? i bought a bottle of their oil and cleaner and put it on my poly80 glock, but i am not so sure i see a difference between this and some other oil
At the risk of creating a firestorm of hate mail, shooting is one of my hobbies, but not my only one. I also build clocks and work on old clocks. Hoppe's GunMedic is the absolute best product anywhere for cleaning and un-gumming clock movements that haven't run for years. Hoppe's #9 is the go-to for lubricating clock movements. Heresay, I know, but just saying . . . .